3/10/2024 0 Comments 1961 thunderbird brake drumsSo the shoes did not "rock" correctly to activate the self-adjusting function. I read of a few situations when the adjuster did not work correctly because some of the retainer and upper brake return springs were weak. The conservative approach is to replace all of the brake shoe hardware when you make the conversion. You have to reach in with 2 screwdrivers to move the lever out of the way so you can release the adjuster. My experience is that if there is any wear in the drum the shoes catch on the lip. I bet they were surprised the first time they tried to remove the drums. I was surprised that i read some posts where the people stated that they did not want to modify their original backing plates. On the other side you will need to make a new slot. On one side of the car you just need to enlarge the current slot. The backing plates will need some modification to provide adequate access to the new adjuster as well as the lever. Any shoe made after the early 60's will have the right holes. This should not be an issue unless someone has a really old set of shoes on their car. The web of the shoe needs to have the extra hole for the self adjusting lever. The conversion requires "new" design brake shoes. I could not confirm details about the implications of those differences. I also saw posts about a few differences among '55, '56' and '57. I could not find much detail about the fronts. Most of the info I saw talked about the ease of the conversion on the rear brakes. The web of the shoe is centered on the shoe so width should not affect the adjustment. I could not confirm that nor do I understand why that would be a factor. I saw some notes and comments about needing a different kit based on the width of the shoes On a '57 the front brakes are 2 1/2" wide compared to the rears at 2". You need to buy a kit designed for the diameter of the drum your fitting. This is needed because the rocking action movement of the shoes that creates the adjustment on the right side requires a reverse (left hand) threaded adjuster. There are 2 key points when you buy the kits There are separate kits for the left and right side. There are lots of sources for self adjusting kits. This list is a summary of what I have learned from posts in this forum as well as many other sources. It seems like 1963 was the year that many makes and models introduced this feature. My searches have confirmed that it is a very doable upgrade and applicable to many Ford vehicles as well as other brands during this period. No swagging nor rust will hold it on if you do it correctly.I have been doing research into the details of adding the self-adjusting brake function to my '57. When Hitting the drum FRONT OR REAR, with your BFH to loosen it from the evil clutches of the Spindle rust or the Swagging, hit it HERE where I've outlined in RED, NEVER hit the BACK of the drum where the fin's are. You will need to spin the adjuster with your screwdriver in the SLOT the tip UP then force the Handle UP and the TIP down in order to loosen your shoes. That is the inner side of what you need to push through your drum, OR grind off the back side, so the entire assembly will come off leaving only the springs hanging you up, and doing this will allow the shoes to twist, and RELEASE the drum, but ONLY do this IF fully releasing the brake adjuster (that thing the guy's right index finger is pointing to) fails to release your drum from the shoes. I know, I'm bad and wasn't very safety conscious back then.ĭo you see the blue springs on the left and right with the shiny silver cap holding them on? I was a dingy teen and bought what i had cash for, gas was more important in those days. Well actually it was the back that had 2 and I only replaced one. I ran only 4 on each for a long time because for some reason only one got stripped out because of re tightening the wheels I had on the car at one time. But they normally, at least in my experience, don't just come off.ĭarn I need to read more! So it's the studs that hold them on? I replaced only one on each of the 4 wheels. Don't ask me if that is the center of the hub is tapered or what. I think they are like pressed on a taper. That was a weird feeling when you just knew it was the drive shaft.īut none of the others ever came off til hammered on. Sounded like the drive shaft dragging the ground but I could still move. Then a few yrs ago that same drum split in half. My drums never slid off the front ones until my dad heated the heck out of one trying to get the wheel to turn cause the brakes were stuck.
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